American Microbrews...We Got a Problem

Today after work I had reason to celebrate; I found out the contract for my job got renewed. Yee-haw! I can live in relative comfort for another year. With that in mind I stopped off at Gomer's on the way home to get some beer. Tonight is going to be special I thought to myself, so I'm going to grab something special to drink.

Ray is waiting out in the car for me, and he's already told me to make it quick 'cause he's got to get home to the Mrs. After I grabbed a six-pack of Molson I ran over to the expensive section to find something maybe I've never heard of before. Unfortunately, I don't have time to peruse. Most of the time I skip the American Microbrews and simply grab a European beer. Why grab an American beer that's trying to be like a European beer when you can grab the original - especially when the microbrews, half the time, are more expensive?

Going against my standard rule I'm lured by a $10 microbrew four-pack in a plain brown carrying case with writing on it. It must be pretty limited and special if they didn't try to market it with an ass-kickin' logo, hops drawings, or a reference to place or history - right? The plain writing and cardboard says "For serious connoisseur's only." I thought, yeah, that's me. I'm a serious guy with a serious palate. I don't need anything but white labels, cardboard and some writing to tell me it's good. Add a $10 price tag and I'm tumbling right into your trap.

What's the trap? Goose Island "Demolition" - supposedly a "Belgian Style Ale." Here's what it says on the label:

Back in the early '90's, our landlord went bankrupt and they tore down the mall surrounding the original Goose Island Brewpub. Sure, we were still open, but who would know it with all the demolition going on. We had giant wrecking balls careening around, the walls were shaking... it was tough. We lost a good part of our business for a year, and if not for the most loyal of our customers, Goose Island would have closed. To honor those brave souls, we brewed a golden ale called Demolition. It was so good and so popular, we've brewed it every year since (I even served it at my wedding!) It's brewed with Saaz and Styrian Golding hops for a grassy, citrus aroma and lots of the finest pale malt for a "honey" malt middle and intense flavor. Demolition tastes great on its own or with a plate of fresh oysters." Greg Hall, Brewmaster

That's all fine and dandy but it doesn't taste like any Belgian beer I've ever had. What it tastes like is every other American microbrew: beer that has way too many hops that aren't balanced with the rest of the ingredients. For whatever reason - whether it's the taste of American water or the hops, almost every American microbrew, be it a pilser, a pale ale, or in this case, a Belgian - always has that characteristic too powerful non-balanced taste. I get the feeling that American microbrewers think if its easy to drink, and the hops don't have a prominent place up front, that somehow the beer is commercial or weak. It's like if it's too drinkable, i.e. enjoyable, it's not sophisticated. To be fair, though, Demolition is not a huge offender in comparison to so many others.

In my opinion, what makes a good beer are two components: complexity of taste and drinkability. What's so crazy about that? Every other brewery around the world seems to get this, why can't we?

Probably the only American microbrewery that seems to get this is Gordon Biersch. Too bad you can't find it in Kansas City. Several years ago when I drank their pilsner it actually tasted like an authentic German beer - which means it can be done. I'm ready for more microbrewers to figure this out.